Japan 2002 Itinerary

Note: The 'PDF(n)' refers to a handout from the Japan Tourist Information Center.

Sep 17, Tue - Tokyo, stay at International House for 11 nights

See Sumo, see Tokyo museums, Ueno park, Asakusa temple

Sep 28, Sat - Oct 1, Tue - Visit Tessin Sasaki, sumi-e painting lesson in Kikegawa

Oct 2, Wed - train to Tokyo (2.5 hrs), stay at Hotel Okura for 1 night, see exhibit at Mitsukoshi

Oct 3, Thu - stay at International House for 4 nights

Oct 4, Fri - train to Kasama (2 hrs)

Over 100 kilns. Kasama ware, Institution of Kasama Pottery. PDF (2).

Oct 5, Sat - Tom sick

Oct 6, Sun - train to Mashiko (2 hrs)

Home of Hamada Shoji potter. 4^th Mashiko Competition 2002 at Togei Messe. Mashiko Reference Collection Museum (Hamada's studio and kiln, and many ceramics) (T-Sun). Higeta Dyeworks (M-Sat). 380-400 kilns here, Mashiko Pottery Center. PDF (3).

Oct 7, Mon - train to Nagoya (2 hrs), stay in Nagoya for 11 nights (Hotel Associa Nagoya Station)

Oct 8, Tue - Train to Tokoname (40 min)

One of 6 old Japanese kilns. Known for simple glazes and rough unglazed finishes. Ceramics Hall, Ceramic Research Center. PDF (10).

Oct 9, Wed - See Nagoya; move hotels to Nagoya Sakae Tokyu Inn (052) 251-0109, stay for 10 nights

See Tokugawa Museum, then Noh play at 6:30. Tokugawa Art Museum with superb Edo-period treasures (including hand scroll of the Tale of Genji).

Oct 10, Thu - Train to Takayama (2 hrs)

Oct 9-10 - Takayama Matsuri at Hachiman-gu shrine; harvest festival is memorable for procession with ornate floats.

Takayama - Sannomachi Quarter (old Edo period houses and specialty shops), Hirata Kinenkan Museum, Hida Archaelogy Musuem, Hida Folklore Village, Kusakabe Heritage House, good walking town, Lion Mask Museum, Festival Float Hall.

Shibukusa, Koito, Yamada - Three types of pottery that have been handed down from town of Hida, each area about 20 min from station. PDF (7).

Oct 11, Fri - Train to Toyohashi (30 min)

Taxi to brush-maker.

Oct 12, Sat - Train to Mino (20 min) via Tajimi

Ceramics Exhibition and new Gifu Prefectural Ceramics Park

Oct 13, Sun - Train to Tajimi (20 min)

Oct 13 - Ceramics Fair.

Noted for now-extinct Mino ware. Also Shino ware. Known for tea cups. Museum, Wholesale Center, Suigetsu Kiln workshop. PDF (8).

Oct 14, Mon - Nagoya

Noh play (9:30-5:30). Tom only!

Oct 15, Tue - Train to Shigaraki (1.5 hrs, 3 trains)

One of 6 old Japanese kilns. Traditional Crafts Center, Ceramic Cultural Park, Sotoen Kiln. Lots of kilns. Has libidinous tanuki raccoon gods. PDF (12).

Oct 16, Wed - Train to Seto (30 min)

Oldest and most illustrious kiln center in Japan. One of 6 old Japanese kilns. White-based china. 24-hour factories manufacture 1/6 of Japan's ceramics, such as Noritake China. Call Kata Sakusuke Kiln and Mizuno Hanjiro Kiln for tour of working kiln. Aichi Prefecture Ceramics Museum is 20 minute bus ride. See PDF (9).

Oct 17, Thu - Train to Miyazaki-mura (1 hr)

Miyazaki-mura has Echizen ware and is one of 6 old Japanese kilns. Mainly brown color earthenware. 29 kilns. Potters' Village, Ceramics Hall, Furukawa Town Workshop. See PDF (5 & 6).

Oct 18, Fri - Nagoya

Nagoya TV Tower, Noritake Showroom and gallery, Aichi Art Museum (Joan Miro), Drum Festival with Taiko drummers from 6:30-8:30.

Oct 19, Sat - Train to Osaka (1.5 hr), stay in Osaka for 10 days (Tokyu Inn of Osaka, 06-6315-0109)

Museum of Oriental Ceramics (one of finest in the world), Suntory Museum, I-Max. See Honshu handout, pg 7.

Oct 20, Sun - Train to Aino, then bus to Tachikui (1 hr)

Oct 19-20 - Ceramics Fair.

One of 6 old Japanese kilns. 60 kilns. Tachikui Sue no Sato displays Tanba (or Tamba) ware. See PDF (14) and Honshu handout, pg 6.

Oct 21, Mon - Train to Kyoto (30 min)

Ginkaku-ji temple with garden, Philosopher's Walk.

Oct 22, Tue - Train to Kyoto.

Konchi-in Temple, Nanzen-ji Temple, Jidai Matsuri (Festival of Ages), Kyoto Handcraft Center.

Oct 23, Wed - Train to Kyoto.

Kyoto National Museum and Raku Museum (see PDF (13)).

Oct 24, Thu - Train to Himeji (1 hr)

Castle, garden.

Oct 25, Osaka

Idemitsu Museum of Arts

Oct 26, Sat - Train to Nara (1 hr)

Nara Park, Kofuku-ji Temple with 5-story pagoda and Treasure House, Nara National Museum with Shoso-in Treasures exhibit.

Oct 27, Sun - Osaka

Fujita Museum of Art, Manno Art Museum, Osaka Municipal Art Museum

Oct 28, Mon - Osaka

Expo '70 Park, Osaka National Museum of Art, National Museum of Ethnology, Osaka Folk Crafts Museum

Oct 29, Tue - Train to Karatsu (4 hrs), stay in Karatsu in Japanese Inn for 4 nights (Yoyo-kaku, room for 2 people w/bath, no meals, Y10,000 per person per night, reserved, Yoyo-Kaku,  2-4-10 Higashi-Karatsu,Karatsu-shi,Saga  +81-955-72-7181  fax+81-955-73-0604, no Internet)

Dozens of kilns and shops with sturdy pottery and understated glazes. Hanako Nakazato was having an exhibit in the ryokan when we arrived.

Oct 30, Wed - Karatsu

Saw Nakazato Taroeman Kiln, and studio of Bob Okasaki. Lunch and exhibit at Seaside hotel. Then to studio of Takashi Natazako. PDF (21).

Oct 31, Thu - Train to Imari (1 hr)

Festival Float Hall, Karatsu pottery shop, train to Imari, taxi to Okawachiyama village, winding streets, raining, 150 shops selling porcelain. PDF (23).

** skipped Hasami-cho (1 hr), Founded 400 years ago. Hasami ware has latticework filigree on side of pot. Hasami Ceramics Hall. 130 kilns in town. See PDF (24).

Nov 1, Fri - Train to Imari (1 hr), train to Arita (20 min)

Nov 1-5 Ceramics Fair. Kyushu Ceramics Art Museum, ceramics fair in area of wholesalers. PDF (22).

Nov 2, Sat - Take train to Kumamoto (1.5 hrs), stay in Kumamoto 3 nights (Hotel Nikko, 096-211-1111, Y26,000, Ms. Tominaga, N/S twin, 2 people, LAN)

Nov 2-4 - Kyushu. Karatsu Kunshi (Okunchi) at Karatsu Shrine and known for its colorful parade of floats.

Nov 3, Sun - See Kumamoto

Shimada Art Museum specializing in Musashi Miyamoto. Kumamoto festival (at the castle) was rained out. Kumamoto Prefectural Museum of Art, Chibajo Branch. Kumamoto Prefectural Traditional Crafts Center. Main branch of the prefectural art museum: Auguste Rodin and a show of Buddhist statues. Kumamoto City Museum. Shopping for warm clothes. Kamitori arcade street.

Nov 4, Mon - See kilns around Kumamoto

Suisenji-koen park with Shichi-go-san (7-5-3 Children's Festival). Shopping.

** skipped Yatsushiro city and Arao City: Several kilns. PDF (25).

Nov 5, Tue - Train to Kagoshima (2.5 hrs), stay in Kagoshima for 3 nights (Tokyu Hotel, 099-257-2411, Mr. Uda, Y15,000)

Live volcano, Sakuajima, dominates city. Sengan-en estate and garden, Shoko Shuseikan museum, Kagoshima Prefectural Museum of Culture with ceramics, Nagashima Art Museum, Urashima Togei give factory tours. 2 kilns. Chotaro-yaki Kiln, Ibusuki Chotaro-yaki Kiln. See Kysushu H/O pg 9 and PDF (28).

Nov 6, Wed - See more of Kagoshima. Taxi to Koyamada (15 min). Black Satsuma ware. Ryumonji Potters' Union. See PDF (27).

Small village called Miyama (via train to Injuin, then taxi) to Chinjukan pottery and studio. Then via train and taxi to Kajiki (black Satsuma pieces called Ryomonji-ware): single potter, Gungi , and larger pottery. PDF (26)

Nov 7, Thu - Train Izumi City (1.5 hr)

10,000 Russian cranes migrate to Kagoshima prefecture each winter. Bukeyashiki district in Izumi, which used to contain 150 samurai (warrior) houses. One of the two houses that are open is called 'Ito-yashiki', and it's 300 years old. The second is 'Saisho-yashiki' and it's 250 years old.

Nov 8, Fri - Train to Hagi (9 hrs), stay in Hagi for 2 nights (first night is Suzume-no-Oyado minshuku, second night is Tomitaya Hotel)

It hailed on our arrival. Ancient town known for beige-pink pottery. It was hailing when we arrived!

Nov 9, Sat - Train/bus to Hagi

Hosts had friend take us to Samurai Quarter with orchards, then to Gesson Hamanaka studio. His wife took us to Kumaya Bijutsukan Art Museum. Shopped at pottery shop across from museum. There is a parade tomorrow, so they had a fair we visited. Then to Shogo Nakahara's gallery for tea. Then to castle grounds for Noh play and more pottery galleries. PDF (17).

Nov 10, Sun - Train to Fukuoka (1 hr), stay in Fukuoka/Hakata for 5 nights, Hakata Excel Hotel Tokyu for 5 nights, Y11,200 for each of two rooms, 092-262-0109, made by Osaka Tokyu Inn, check in at 1 pm)

Tom went to sumo tournament; Cheryl stayed home in bed.

, Asian Art Museum, Sumiyoshi Shrine. Fukuoka Art Museum is one of largest in the country and has good collection of ceramics with English guides. Yusentei is elegant garden and tea arbor. Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine is well-known. Also ningyo clay dolls. See Kyushu H/O pg 2.

Nov 11, Mon - Fukuoka

Shofuku-ji is oldest Zen Buddhist temple, Kushida Shrine is largest Shinto shrine, Hakata Machiya Folklore Museum; Canal City for lunch and CDs; Tom went to sumo tournament.

Nov 12, Tue - Fukuoka

Tom went to Fukuoka Art Museum, then to sumo tournament with a box seat.

Nov 13, Wed - Train to Hita City (1 hr)

Taxi to Onta, founded in 1705. Saw Onta Pottery Hall, and most of the dozen family kilns. Taxi to Koishiwara village with Pottery & Traditional Craft Center, and 51 kilns. Liked kiln of Takahiro Ohta. PDF(20).

Nov 14, Thu - Fukuoka

Shopping, sumo tournament.

Nov 15, Fri - Train to Okayama (2 hrs), stay in Okayama for 3 nights, Hotel Granvia, Y25,000, twin, by Rei, 086-234-7000

Oyakama Prefectural Art Museum has Bizen ware, Koraku-end gardens. See Honshu H/O pg 8. 7-5-3 Children's Festival (Shichi-go-san)

Nov 16, Sat - Train to Kurashiki (20 min)

Kurashiki - Storehouse village, Bikan Historical Area, Ohara Museum of Art, Kogeikan (has pottery, early Japanese folk craft), Folk Art Museum, Japanese Toy Museum, teahouses, and Bizen pottery shops. See Honshu H/O pg 8.

Nov 17, Sun - 2 trains to Imbe (20 min, 40 min)

Imbe is 700-year old pottery village known for Bizen-ware. Oldest of 6 old Japanese kilns. Lots of kilns, studios, shops. Bizen Ceramics Hall. Fujiwara Kei Art Museum. Ceramics Museum (has English map of local pottery shops), Memorial Gallery. See Honshu H/O pg 8 and PDF (16).

Nov 18, Mon - Train back to Kyoto, stay at Kyoto Tokyu Hotel for 11 nights (06-6315-0109)

Daitoku-ji Temple (sub-temples: Kohrin-in, Daisen-In, Koto-in, and Zuiho-in). Hoshun-in Temple and Kagantei garden.

Nov 19, Tue - Kyoto

Imperial Palace for permissions. Kanjiro Kawai's house. Chawanzan (teapot alley). Yuzo Kondo Museum. Kyomizu-era Temple.

Nov 20, Wed - Kyoto

Katsura Imperial Villa. Toji Temple.

Nov 21, Thu - Kyoto

Shisendo Temple. Enkoji Temple. Manshuin Temple. Shugakuen Imperial Villa.

Nov 22, Fri - Kyoto

Kyoto Museum of Modern Art. Kyoto Municipal Museum. Miyako Messe and Fureai-kan (crafts exhibit). Sento Gosho (Imperial Palace for retired emperor). Antique streets.

Nov 23, Sat - Osaka

Idemitsu Museum.

Nov 24, Sun - Kyoto

Tofukuji Temple, pottery street, Sanju-sangen-do (Rengeo-in) Temple, Chishakuin Temple.

Nov 25, Mon - Train to Uji (1 hr)

Ryoanji Temple, Kitano Tenmangu Shrine flea market, antique street, Takashamiya Department Store

Uji (small town south of Kyoto) - Byodo-in temple with garden (shown on 10yen coin - one of most popular).

Nov 26, Tue - Kyoto

Higashi-Hongaji Temple, Miyako Messe and the Fureai-kan (or crafts exhibit), Hosomi Museum, Annex of the Kyoto Municipal Art Museum, Heian Shrine, Kampo Museum, Nomura Museum, Eikan-do Temple, Museum of Kyoto.

Nov 27, Wed - Shigaraki

Miho Museum.

Nov 28, Thu - Kyoto

Ike no Taiga museum, Matsuo Taisha Shrine, Kokedera (Moss Temple - real name Saihoji Temple), Jizo-in (bamboo temple), antique street, painting supply store.

Nov 29, Fri - Kyoto, Uji, Nara, train to Tokyo, stay at International House for 10 nights, 03-3470-4611

Zen Museum of the Honozono University. Train to Uji - 900-year-old Tsuen tea shop, Byodoin Temple. Train to Nara - 'Rowhouse for Stubborn Craftsmen', Boku-Undo Co., Ltd. (sumi company).

Nov 30, Sat - Tokyo

Idemitsu Museum, Seikado Bunko Art Museum.

Dec 1, Sun - Tokyo

Sen-oku Hakuko Kan Museum, Nezu Institute of Art and garden, Suntory Museum of Art.

Dec 2, Mon - Tokyo

Tom - sick, Cheryl - department stores.

Dec 3, Tue - Tokyo

Cheryl to Kasama: Ibaraki Ceramic Art Museum, Kasama Nichido Museum of Art, home of Kazo Tanaka (painter).

Dec 4, Wed - Tokyo

Tom sick.

Dec 5, Thu - Train to Nikko (1.5 hrs)

Tokyo Modern Museum of Art, Museum's Crafts Gallery.

Dec 6, Fri - Tokyo

Tom sick..

Dec 7, Sat - Tokyo

Ueno park, Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Art, Takeshita-dori (street) in the Harajuku area, Oriental Bazaar,

Dec 8, Sun - Tokyo

Tokyo Metropolitan Museum, Tokyo National Museum, Shinjuku, Virgin Record.

Dec 9 - Return to US

First snow in Tokyo this year!